Paint Repair On A Custom By Jay At Rundle’s Customs

OK, so it was Friday night and we were out at our favorite watering hole, Great night, Girls were hot and everything seemed PERFECT.....closing time and we’re outside warming up the bikes, a crowd gathers around, excitement builds.....Mark starts to take off on his custom bike and all of a sudden we see nothing BUT sparks and a bike on it;s side.....Winter time on a custom in Idaho.....Hit a Slick Spot !!!!!!

I look over the damage and tell Mark to get his tank off and let’s get it fixed…I have seen countless soft layovers like this that can be easily fixed…they’re just a little time consuming and it seems like no matter how fast you try to get a customer’s bike back on the road someone is always complaining about waiting on the painter…so I wanted to give everyone a look at what really goes on behind the scenes and why it does take a bit of time to do it correctly…

First get the item off of the bike and free of all bolts and attachments.


Get a good idea of what all needs to be fixed. This case was just big indentation in left side of tank.


Since this is a tank with a large dent I will use a Stud Gun welding tool to tack on studs that I can attach a slide hammer puller tool to it to pull the dent out. Some shops tend to just grind it out and pack it with bondo but really this is the proper way to do it.


Make sure you use all the proper tools and safety supplies for this job!


Now that I have the dent pulled out I use a 36 grit disc to prep the metal for a light coat of filler


Make sure you mix the proper amounts for the job and make sure you get the same color throughout


Now that all areas are prepped out I mask up a few inches out from repaired areas to blend in primer surface


Then I spray a contrasting color lightly on it after it’s dried as a guide coat to aid in sanding to find any high/low spots.


A paint job is only as good as the body work underneath~~ all paint does is mirror the underlying surface. I mask up the graphics using fine line tape. This tape leaves a crisp edge


unmask and let dry completely. wipe down to remove any overspray and repeat process for the blue


now it’s time to apply the pinstripe. I mix up the right shade of pinstripping silver and carefully retrace the edge


Happy with the way everything looks, I wipe it down and prep it for clear. Apply 4-5 good wet coats, then after it dried I cut it down with 1,500-2,000 grit wet paper to level out the graphics. Polish it with a good buffing compound and buffer. Clean it all up and it’s ready to go back to the customer.


Before beginning any sanding make sure you get a good paint match. Original codes are best but a good reputable automotive paint store should have a color scanner. They take a pic. of the paint and mix from there.


Once you have the right color’s, begin by thoroughly cleaning the tank with a good wax and grease remover. This is really important to get road grime silicone waxes and oils off the tank before beginning.


Since this tank will be welded MAKE SURE YOU GET ALLTHE FUMES OUT. One spark and they will pop.. I do this by flushing with hot soapy water a few times and then taping n air blower nozzle open and letting it run in the tank a few minutes.


Once tank is clean and dry I begin taping up surrounding area to protect it. I then use Scotch Brite roloc pad to remove the layers of paint and filler primer. I prefer to use the scotch brite pad over a grinder disc at this stage because I don’t want to remove any more metal than needed.


Once all the paint is removed you are ready to tack on the studs for pulling the dent out.


I like to mix my filler with about 20% glazer to help eliminate pin holes in the filler and help it flow better


I work quickly with the filler, make sure it gets pressed into all the grinder marks for a good bite. Then just as it start to set up hard I take a grater and shape it out roughly


Now I soft block it out with 80 grit and remove the mask and feather it out into the painted area with 220 grit.


The tank had a few other nicks and dings so I fixed them and TIG welded up a worn spot on the bottom that rubbed on a bracket, rather than just filling it with filler.


Now I give it about 3 good coats of good epoxy 2 part primer concentrating on the filler area and floating it out.


I now let it cure out for 24 hours to make sure it doesn’t shrink then I wet sand it down with 400 grit and check closely for any imperfections


Now I back mask all the area I don’t want gray/silbver to get on and shoot the repaired areas with sealer. Then apply the color fading it into the original paint.


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